keep rabbit happy and healthy

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HIGH IN FIBER
The fiber recommendation for companion rabbits is a crude fiber level of 13-20% with a level of 12.5% indigestible fiber.

LOW IN CALCIUM
The dietary level recommendation for companion rabbits of calcium is 0.6-1%.

LOW IN CARBOHYDRATES
The overload of rapidly digestible carbohydrates (for example, sugars) in the large intestine increases the likelihood of digestive disorders.

The following dietary requirements are for an adult, healthy rabbit. If you think of your rabbit's diet as a food pyramid, about 80% of it should be hay, about 15% fresh vegetables, 4.5% pellets, and .5% treats.

find a new home for rabbit

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It is a serious matter when deciding to give up a companion animal. There are often long term ramifications that most do not consider at the time of relinquishment. Assuming that you have some level of attachment to your rabbit, you may carry the sadness and the guilt of giving him/her up for many years. People trying to atone for the surrender of a companion animal earlier in their lives by offering another one a home later in their lives is not a rare event in the rescue community.

Relinquishing your rabbit is also a poor lesson for children about assuming and following through on responsibility. Surely they deserve a better role model. Also, some children read the event as a message that if the family pet can be given up, then so can they. However unlikely this may be, the child can be burdened with this fear.

Please evaluate your situation and think this decision through very carefully.

PLEDGE FOR NEW PET ADOPTERS

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Rabbits are available for adoption from various local and nationwide rescue, shelter, and welfare organizations. Most counties in Maryland and Virginia and the District of Columbia have shelters that house rabbits for adoption. Rabbit rescue organizations have rabbits available for adoption that are currently living in foster homes. There are also on-line resources where you can view adoptable rabbits. Check our Homefinder page to see if there are any rabbits in the Adoption Gallery.

I pledge to make a reasonable commitment of time and effort, and to affect scheduling and lifestyle changes in order to make this relationship work;

I pledge to make sure my pet is not exposed to the elements of weather without proper shelter, shade cover, dry ground, access to fresh water and at least 1 hour of loving companionship and play a day (I understand this is a minimum and will strive to keep my pet with me as much as possible and treat him/her as an important member of my family);

I pledge to provide appropriate and timely veterinary care for the life of my pet

I pledge provide my pet with the proper nutrition for optimum health, and to keep my pet the proper weight, neither obese nor emaciated

PLEDGE FOR NEW PET ADOPTERS

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I pledge to keep my pet indoors, and to include him/her in the activities of the household while we are home, as much as possible

I pledge to keep my pet groomed and free of external parasites and matting;

I pledge to spay or neuter my pet, if he/she is not already;

I pledge to give my pet ample exercise daily;

I pledge to provide my pet with mental stimulation in the form of either play, interactive toys, or training, DAILY;

I pledge to provide my pet with enough training and/or behavioral management so as to enable him to be a welcome part of my community, or managed safely;

I pledge to provide my pet ample outlets for his/her instincts so that s/he does not feel constantly frustrated, or develop behavioral problems because s/he is neglected or under stimulated;

I pledge to provide a home in which my pet clearly knows there are certain rules to which I will insist on and s/he can count on

I pledge to provide my pet with enough toys to satisfy his urge to chew, dig, scratch, etc.;

I pledge to get professional help if my pet has or develops behavior or temperament problems, and, if safe, to manage my pet carefully so as not ot endanger the people and other pets in my community;

PLEDGE FOR NEW PET ADOPTERS

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I pledge to do everything I can to keep my pet from becoming a nuisance in my community;

I will not allow her/him to run free/out of my control;

I will seek professional help to get my pet to be quiet, or keep him/her quiet both when I am home and away, so as not to disturb my neighbors;

I pledge to "scoop poop" from my pet when off my property, so that my pet and other pets will always be welcome in public;

I pledge that if I have to move residences for any reason, I am aware that finding housing that accepts pets can take longer than average, but that I will commit to moving with my pet, as I would move with a member of my family;

I pledge that if, for any reason, I can no longer keep this pet, I will not abandon him/her and I will return my pet to the shelter (if required) or leave ample time to find a new, appropriate home, tell the new owners truthfully all the pet's behaviors, good and bad, and follow up occasionally to make sure the pet is safe and content.

From "Loyalty," petfinder.com bookmark. Pledge adapted from Sue Sternberg.

HOME CARE FOR YOUR RABBIT

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After your rabbit has seen the vet and the acute problem is stabilized you may have to provide home care for your rabbit. This often involves syringe feeding, syringe administration of medications, and sub-cutaneous administration of fluids.

To syringe feed, make sure you get a 35 ml or 65 ml catheter tipped (not lura-lock) syringe from your vet. You should have also gotten packages of an Oxbow product called Critical Care, a powdered form of food for sick rabbits. The powder comes in flavors and can be mixed with baby food applesauce, squash, or any approved fruit or vegetable that your rabbit particularly likes. The mixture may need to be diluted with water. Insert the syringe in the side of the rabbit's mouth and gently push the liquid into his/her mouth. Take care not to squirt the fluid down the rabbit's throat and into his/her lungs. Most rabbits are not fond of this procedure and will not be at their most cooperative. Critical Care can also be directly purchased from many rabbit rescue groups and on-line at the Oxbow web site.

Most rabbit medications come in suspensions of fruit flavored liquids that can be administered by pulling the correct dosage into a dropper and then squirting the liquid into the rabbit's mouth. Many rabbits learn to like the flavor and will eagerly suck the fluid from the dropper when offered. See links below for detailed information about medicating your rabbit.
If your rabbit is not eating or drinking, is having diarrhea, s/he may have become dehydrated. You can check your rabbit's state of hydration be lifting up the skin at the scruff of the neck. If it snaps back into place, your rabbit is well hydrated. If it stays tented and is slow to return to its normal position, your rabbit is dehydrated (skin tenting equals 5-7% dehydration). If your vet feels that your rabbit needs more fluids, s/he will give you saline solution to inject sub-cutaneously at the scruff of the next. The usual dosage is 100 ml/kg of body weight (1 kg = 2.2 lbs.) Your vet will instruct you in this procedure before you leave the office.

MAKE A DAILY ASSESSMNET OF YOUR RABBIT FOR EVIDENCE OF PAIN

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Pain Assessment: Your rabbit exhibits symptoms of pain by hunching up in the back of his/her living quarters or in a corner, grinding his/her teeth, not being as active as usual, not grooming him/her self or other companion rabbits, not being inquisitive, not responding to a favorite treat, and/or not eating or producing fecal pellets. Rabbits in pain can become aggressive with other companion rabbits or their humans, especially when being picked up. Hunching and tooth grinding is particularly associated with abdominal pain. Pain associated with urinary problems causes a rabbit to strain and appear uncomfortable.

Giving aspirin for pain remains controversial. Most agree that a small amount of baby aspirin (dosage: 5 lb baby = 5 lb rabbit) is okay in a situation where you can't get your rabbit to a vet for several hours and you need to provide relief for your rabbit until you can get other medication.

MAKE A DAILY ASSESSMENT OF YOUR RABBIT'S FECAL PELLETS

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Fecal Pellets (Bunny Berries) Exam: Normal fecal pellets are a bit tacky to the touch when first passed. They dry quickly, have the consistency of sawdust, and are round like peas. They should not be misshapen. The bigger the better, but the size of the pellet varies with the size of the rabbit. If they are strung together like a string of pearls, your rabbit is ingesting too much hair. S/he and all companion rabbits are in need of grooming. Changes from your rabbit's normal pellets indicate a health problem. If you are taking your rabbit to the vet, collect some of the problematic pellets to show your vet. Rabbits also have cecal pellets. They are not seen in a healthy rabbit. What is a cecal pellet? See www.rabbit.org/chapters/san-diego/diet/cecals.html

SURGURY AND RABBITS

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Some vets give Ketamine and Valium as pre-operative medications. These drugs must be metabolized out of the body by the liver and/or the kidneys. If you have an older rabbit or one who has been ill, it might be a good idea to get blood drawn for laboratory tests to make sure that the liver and kidneys are in good working order. Many vets choose not to medicate pre-op. NOTE: the liver function variable in rabbits is billiverdin, which is analogous to billirubin in humans.

The anesthesia of choice for rabbits is isoflurane. Rabbits are rarely intubated. Instead, they are placed in a box where the isoflurane is gradually increased until they lose consciousness. The rabbit is then removed from the box so that the surgery can be performed. Unconsciousness is maintained by the isoflurane being administered via facial mask. Servoflurane is newer but more expensive and is similar enough to isoflurane to not merit the extra expense. Rabbits who are older and/or been anesthetized multiple times may become immune to isoflurane as they age.

Sutures should be non-exposed, non-reactive, and absorbable. PDS synthetic is a good choice of suture material. Make sure your vet will be using a suture pattern that keeps stitches buried beneath the skin (intra-dermal suture pattern) because rabbits tend to chew their sutures. Elizabethan collars are best avoided in rabbits because they interfere with caecotrophy and grooming. Also, as prey animals, they may feel trapped, desperate, and depressed. Rabbits frequently stop eating because of these reactions.

To keep them from chewing out their stitches, make a body stocking out of a sweatshirt sleeve, the top of panty hose, or saran wrap, which will stick to their fur to keep the bandage in place. Make sure that the wrap is loose enough for your rabbit to breathe normally. Small wounds can be covered with surgical adhesive. REMOVE THE BODY STOCKING EVERY THREE TO FOUR HOURS SO THAT YOUR RABBIT CAN MOVE ABOUT AND ELIMINATE NORMALLY FOR A TIME WHILE YOU ARE SUPERVISING HIM/HER. CHECK YOUR RABBIT'S BOTTOM TO MAKE SURE FECAL PELLETS ARE NOT ACCUMULATING THERE.

HEALTH AND MEDICAL MANAGEMENT OF YOUR RABBIT

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KEEP A FILE OR NOTEBOOK WITH ALL OF YOUR RABBIT'S MEDICAL RECORDS IN IT. Take it with you when you visit your vet's office so you can add the results of the most recent exam to it. This information is invaluable if you have to visit an emergency clinic where your rabbit is unknown.

Ophthalmic (Eye) Problems

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In companion rabbits, dental disease is often manifested in eye symptoms. This is partially due to swelling that blocks the duct that drains tears allowing bacteria and debris to accumulate. Conjunctivitis often results.

Conjunctivitis is characterized by excessive tears, swelling, and ocular (eye) discharge. Predisposing factors other than the above mentioned dental disease include poor ventilation and urine soaked bedding which leads to high environmental ammonia levels that irritate the conjuctiva. High protein diets, hay dust, mechanical irritation, eyelid abnormalities, and trauma are also factors. Your vet will identify the underlying reason for the conjunctivitis. Any foreign body will be removed. An antibiotic ophthalmic solution will probably also be prescribed.

Muscle-Skeletal Problems

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SPONDYLOSIS OF THE LUMBAR SPINE
This is a fairly common disease of rabbits over 4 years of age, particularly females of medium to large breeds.

Cause: The vertebrae in the lumbar or back area gradually develop little bony protrusions that can eventually bridge to the adjacent vertebrae resulting in the fusion of the two. No one knows the exact reason this happens, but it is likely an aging process. It can be aggravated if a rabbit is carrying excess body weight (obese). This is not life threatening and can progress for years.

Signs: The fusing of the vertebrae decreases the flexibility of the spine and prevents the rabbit from being able to jump and run as easily. Before these bony "spurs" fuse completely, they can rub on each other and cause some pain. The pain may come and go dependent on things such as the weather and how much exercise the rabbit got the day before. Rabbits affected with this disease"shuffle" rather than hop and on some days can become very reluctant to move at all. As the disease progresses, it may be difficult for the rabbit to get in and out of the litter box and he may soil himself.

For more information see: www.friendsofrabbits.org/resources/MEDICAL/hind_limb_weakness.html

RABBITS AS SECOND LANGUAGE LEARNERS

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Rabbits can understand some human-speak. Most learn to respond to their name and come when called but more in the manner of cats than dogs. Rabbits also understand yum-yum, come, let's go, no, box, all gone, nite-nite, bye-bye, go-go-go, and you're such a handsome fellow/girl. They respond to tone, appreciating praise and reconsidering their behavior when hearing firmness.

Vocalizations

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Grunting/Growling: indicates anger or disapproval of a human's or another rabbit's behavior (invasion of their territory, for example) and may be followed by scratching or biting. Translation: "Back off. Leave me alone. Put me down."

Honking: is a soft, almost inaudible sound associated with courtship behavior; it is often accompanied by circling. Translation: "Hey, hey, baby, would you be my girl or guy?"

Snorting: is a request for attention or a statement that the rabbit does not like something. It could also be a symptom of an upper respiratory infection. Translation: "What do I have to do around here to get some pets? I'm annoyed. I may be sick."

Vocalizations

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Tooth clicking or "purring": is a light grinding or clicking of the teeth that indicates pleasure and contentment. Translation: "I am a happy rabbit. I am completely relaxed and comfortable in my environment. I'll give you six hours to stop this wonderful stroking and petting."

Tooth grinding: indicates severe pain, discomfort, or distress. Translation: "I'm in great pain and need help."

Whimpering, squealing, and squeaks: are associated with pain and distress. Translation: "That hurt! I don't feel well." Some squeaking is done is close, intimate situations and is an indication of closeness.

Screaming: indicates mortal terror or severe pain. Translation: "I think I am going to die and I'm terrified."

PREY ANIMAL CHARACTERISTICS

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Like most prey animals, rabbits come equipped with various predator detection and evasion enhancements. Their eyes are located on the sides of their heads so that they can see almost 360 degrees around them. The sacrifice for this arrangement is a blind spot directly in front of the rabbit's face. Keep this in mind when you approach your rabbit or put your hand directly in front of his/her face. Rabbits will rely more on their senses of smell and hearing to identify you when they can't see you.

Another predator detection tool is their acute sense of hearing. Rabbits can hear up to a mile away. If something is amiss, they will stomp their hind feet to warn the warren, i.e. your household, that danger is about. You might recall Thumper in the movie, Bambi. Stomping can also have other translations. You'll have to rely on context and personal knowledge of your rabbit to interpret his/her meaning.

Rabbits are very territorial

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As a prey animal, much of rabbit behavior is organized around scanning for and quickly interpreting potential threats so that they can take action to avoid predators.

Rabbits are very territorial and defend their turf against intruders. They communicate a variety of messages to other critters about how they will handle these incursions.

Rabbits are hard wired to live in groups in which they establish social hierarchies. They communicate their position in that hierarchy by exhibiting dominance behaviors.

about rabbit

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A rabbit's sense of smell far exceeds human capabilities and is used to monitor the environment for any whiff of predators. When a rabbit smells or hears something alarming, s/he will sit very still with ears arranged to catch sound from all directions and nose no longer twitching. S/he is deciding whether or not an escape effort should be executed.

All this constant scanning of the environment for danger and living on heightened alert makes rabbits easily over-stressed. To minimize stress, it is important to approach your rabbit in a calm, confident manner. Anxiety is particularly contagious to prey animals and if you communicate that you are anxious, your rabbit will respond accordingly.

To ease your rabbit's stress, speak to your rabbit as you approach so that s/he can identify you by the sound of your voice. Speak soothingly and in low tones. Place your hands where your rabbit can see what you are doing. Be careful about picking your rabbit up, making sure to support his/her hindquarters. Being picked up is frightening to most rabbits and many resist. In the wild if they are being picked up, most likely they are about to be eaten.

bunny understand some human-speak

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Rabbits are usually silent but that does not mean that they have nothing to say. Body language is their primary mode of communication but they do make some vocalizations. In addition, rabbits are second language learners and can understand some human-speak. Their behavior and communication methods have evolved from their wild ancestors responses to their place in the animal kingdom as prey animals, their collective socialization patterns, and their individual dynamics of social behavior.

RABBIT SPEAK

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Rabbits speak to other rabbits and to humans by using extensive body language and a few vocalizations. Interpreting your rabbit's meaning or "personal dialect" depends on the context of the situation and you knowing your rabbit. The following general descriptions of rabbit language should help you translate.